Archive for the ‘travel’Category

Uganda is beautiful

I’ve been in Uganda the last few weeks helping with the implementation of a large scale survey: a representative national household survey and survey of drug retailers and healthcare providers, all focused on the availability and usage of essential medicines for childhood illness. The system we’ve set up is pretty cool, with data collection on Android tablets via ODK meta and real time checks for data quality (by teams, individual interviewers, and individual interviews) and feedback to the survey group, which I hope to write up at a later date.

In the meantime, I wanted to share some photos of Uganda, which is really, really beautiful. There’s a whole album here, and below are some highlights:

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25

10 2014

Overheard in Maseru

Last Friday afternoon I was leaving Lesotho via the Maseru airport. An African gentleman — country unknown — was standing in front of me in the short line for the immigration passport check. The immigration officer greeted the man in Sesotho, asking him a question. From behind his body language seemed confused, and then he asked a question in English.

The immigration officer said, “Oh! You are not Basotho. I mistook you for one of my brothers.”

“No, no,” laughing. “But I am still an African. We are all brothers.”

He takes his passport, examines it, and stamps. “Yes, we are brothers.”

“We have the same problems, so we are brothers.”

“Yes, we do have those.”

04

09 2014

Travel tips

I’ve put together a list of tips and suggestions for travelers, drawing on advice from colleagues and friends. It’s geared towards public health or development folks who work in and often travel between low-income countries, as opposed to backpackers, tourists, etc.  The document is in Google Drive so I can continuously update it with suggestions — feedback is appreciated.

Another good resource is How to work in someone else’s country by Ruth Stark, which is written with global health consultants in mind, and contains useful packing advice and good general rules for cross-cultural work. Chris Blattman has written quite a bit about this; see especially his posts on air travel, air travel pt 2, packing, and packing pt 2.

25

02 2014

Tanzania readings and resources

My recent post asking for tips on what to read on Tanzania and Dar es Salaam yielded some great emails. I’ve compiled the recommendations and am sharing them back here:

Books:

Papers:

  • Bjerk, Paul K. “Sovereignty and socialism in Tanzania: the historiography of an African state.” (PDF)
  • Lal, Priya. “Self-Reliance and the State: The Multiple Meanings of Development in Early Post-Colonial Tanzania.”

News:

Blogs:

No recommendations so far, alas. Anyone?

Food:

  • quick local bite: Chef’s Pride on Morogoro Road
  • Lukas Bar on Chole Road
  • Al Basha (good Lebanese food)
  • Al-Qayam
  • Badminton Club and Retreat (Indian)

Travel and sights:

  • In Dar: The National Museum (on Sokoine Street). I actually visited this already and found it quite interesting, especially the exhibits on history and rock art.
  • “Zanzibar and Pemba are affordable and gorgeous and filled with history”
  • “Mikumi is a less expensive game park if that is your thing”
  • Arusha and Kilimanjaro
  • Kariakoo market (with good Swahili or a guide)
  • Udzungwa Mountains National Park (with camping gear)

Map:

  • “The coolest map remains the really simple photocopied black-and-white line one of the city center that every hotel gives out for free.”

Swahili:

  • Get a dictionary and go “to one of the many school supply shops to buy some elementary school Swahili books. These are books designed to teach Swahili to students in the interior who are only generally only hearing Swahili at school (sometimes church), and they’ll definitely get you up to speed.”
  • Live Lingua has the Peace Corps’ Swahili resources.

24

02 2014

Taxi conversations (caution: low external validity)

I will try not to generalize too much — a la Thomas Friedman — from conversations with taxi drivers to entire cultures or the state of nations, but I thought these three were worth sharing:

  • In Zambia in October, I was asked “In America, who pays the the other family for a wedding, the man’s family or the woman’s family?” He was aghast that the answer was “neither,” although on further discussion of American wedding rituals I conceded that the bride’s family does pay more of the costs. This then led to many interesting conversations throughout my work in Zambia.
  • In Kenya this week, I listed to a 20-minute explication on US foreign policy on the International Criminal Court. This lopsided knowledge, where non-Americans almost always seem to know more about US policy than Americans know of other countries’ policies, is always a bit surprising, but also an indication that US decisions are felt around the world.
  • In Tanzania last week, I was asked where I’m from. I respond “the US,” and often get “which state?” but “Arkansas” yields blank stares. So, I typically say “Arkansas… it’s next to Texas” or “Arkansas… it’s where Bill Clinton was governor before he became president.” This time I went with the latter explanation. The driver paused, and said “Bill Clinton… Yes, I think I know that name. He is Hillary Clinton’s husband, yes?”  Progress, there.

14

02 2014

Tanzania and Dar bleg

When I moved to Ethiopia I posted a bleg (blog request) asking for reading suggestions: blogs, novels, history, academic papers, etc., and got some very useful feedback — some in the comments and some by email.

I’m moving to Dar es Salaam this week, where I’ll be continuing my work with CHAI but living a bit closer to the projects I’m working on. I’m interesting in reading broadly about Tanzania, and also specifically about Dar. I’d love to hear any suggestions you have for the following:

  • History books – Dar-specific, Tanzania-specific, or regional
  • Novels
  • Academic papers
  • Blogs / news / RSS to follow
  • Swahili resources (I already have several books and audio guides, but I’m curious what media others have watched or activities you’ve done that facilitated learning Swahili)
  • Must-see travel destinations, must-eat foods, must-do activities
  • Cool maps
  • Tanzania data sets / sources I should be familiar with?

I may report back with my own ideas after I’ve settled in a bit.

Update: read the recommendation I’ve received so far.

03

02 2014

Year in review – infographic style!

It’s been about six months since I wrote a real blog post other than a link round-up. One of my 2014 resolutions is to write more regularly — either for this blog or for myself — and I’m calling on you, blog readers, to hold me to it.

In the meantime, I wanted to share a bit about what it was that kept me too busy to blog. It was a jam-packed year between finishing school, starting a new job, and traveling for fun and for work. At some point in the fall I made a pie chart of where I had spent time so far in the year, and that led to the idea of doing a holiday greeting card in the form of an infographic. I put one together over the holidays and share it with friends and family — it’s supposed to be a bit over the top and tongue in cheek, and it might just become an annual tradition, though future versions will have much better metrics. Click for the PDF:

 

I also updated the Photography page with links to these albums from 2013: EthiopiaCosta RicaCape Town, and Lesotho. I’m sure there’s a better way to present some of these, so suggestions in the comments for integrating photography into a blog are welcome.

13

01 2014

Comparisons

It’s hard for me to experience Nigeria without comparing it – mentally, and probably too often, verbally, with Ethiopia. Or rather, comparing Abuja to Addis, since my experience in each country has been centered on the capital. A few thoughts with a broad brush stroke: compared to Addis, Abuja is hotter (lower altitude), the roads are much better (oil wealth? planned city?), the taxis and most cars are newer (less massive import taxes?), the driving is much more aggressive (cars that can actually go fast + fast roads), the upscale grocery stores have amazing selection (more Nigerian buying power?), and security and crime are much greater, ever-present concerns. The music is better (sorry, Teddy Afro) and the conversation louder. The international scene here is more British, more male, and – especially outside of Abuja – more ensconced in all-encompassing compounds called “life camps” run by big foreign oil and construction companies that, like NGOs, often have 3-letter acronym names that have long outlived their original meaning.

02

07 2013

Friday photos: Somaliland

I have lots of thoughts on my trip about one month ago to Somaliland, as it’s a fascinating place — highly recommended in particular for students of public policy or development. But those will have to wait for future posts as I’m swamped for now with work, my Masters thesis, and some other projects. In the meantime, this is Hargeisa:

Above, a major mosque. Below, the street scene downtown:

The animal market:

And here’s me with a moneychanger and stacks of Somaliland shillings:

02

11 2012

Ethiopia bleg

Bleg: n. An entry in a blog requesting information or contributions. (via Wiktionary)

Finals are over, and I just have a few things to finish up before moving to Addis Ababa, Ethiopia on June 1. I’ll be there for almost eight months, working as a monitoring and evaluation intern on a large health project; this work will fulfill internship requirements for my MPA and MSPH degrees, and then I’ll have just one semester left at Princeton before graduating. After two years of “book-learning” I’m quite excited to apply what I’ve been learning a bit.

One thing I learned from doing (too many?) short stints abroad is that it’s easy to show up with good intentions and get in the way; I’m hopeful that eight months is long enough that I can be a net benefit to the team I’ll be working with, rather than a drain as I get up to speed. I plan to get an Amharic tutor after I arrive — unfortunately I figured out my internship recently enough that I wasn’t able to plan ahead and study the language before going.

I’m especially excited to live in Ethiopia. I have not been before — this will be my first visit to East Africa / the Horn of Africa at all. I’ll mostly be in Addis, but should also spend some time in rural areas where the project is being implemented. I’ve already talked with several friends who briefly lived in Addis to get tips on what to read, what to do, who to meet, and what to pack. That said I’m always open for more suggestions.

So, I’ll share what I’ve already, or definitely plan to read, and let you help fill in the gaps. Do you have book recommendations? Web or blog links? RSS suggestions? What-to-eat (or not eat) tips? Here’s what I’ve dug up so far:

  • Owen Barder has several informative pages on living and working in Ethiopia here.
  • Chris Blattman’s post on What to Read About Ethiopia has lots of tips, some of which I draw on below. His advice for working in a developing country is also helpful, along with lists of what to pack (parts one and two), though they’re obviously not tailored to life in Addis. Blattman also links to Stefan Dercon’s page with extensive readings on Ethiopian agriculture, and helpfully organizes relevant posts under tags, including posts tagged Ethiopia.
  • As for a general history, I’ve started Harold Marcus’ academic History of Ethiopia, and it’s good so far.
  • Books that have gotten multiple recommendations from friends — and thus got bumped to the top of my list — include The EmperorCutting for StoneChains of Heaven, and The Sign and the Seal. Other books I’ve seen mentioned here and there include Sweetness in the BellyWaugh in AbyssiniaNotes from the Hyena’s BellyScoop, and A Year in the Death of Africa. If you rave about one of these enough it might move higher up the priority list. But I’m sure there are others worth reading too.
  • For regular information flow I have a Google Alert for Ethiopia, the RSS feed for AllAfrica.com’s Ethiopia page, and two blogs found so far:  Addis Journal and Expat in Addis. (Blog recommendations welcome, especially more by Ethiopians.) There’s also a Google group called Addis Diplo List.
  • One of my favorite novels is The Beautiful Things That Heaven Bears — the story of an Ethiopian immigrant in Washington, DC’s Logan Circle neighborhood in the 1980s. It’s as much about gentrification as it is about the immigrant experience, and I first read it as a new arrival in DC’s Petworth neighborhood — which is in some ways at a similar ‘stage’ of gentrification to Logan Circle in the 80s.
  • I’ve started How to Work in Someone Else’s Country, which is aimed more at short-term consultants but has been helpful so far.
  • Also not specific to Ethiopia, but I’m finally getting around to reading the much-recommended Anti-Politics Machine, on the development industry in Lesotho, and it seems relevant.

Let me know what I’ve missed in the comments. And happy 200th blog post to me.

(Note: links to books are Amazon Affiliates links, which means I get a tiny cut of the sales value if you buy something after clicking a link.)

23

05 2012